ArduBoard is an Arduino Compatible Board designed by keeping in mind easy interfacing of I2C devices, on-board 5V, 3.3V Voltage Regulators and FTDI compatibility in a compact form-factor which is also BreadBoard Compatible!
Here is the ArduBoard, the perfect fit for your Arduino-based projects.
If you need the power of an Arduino Uno Board either on a BreadBoard or anywhere else in your project, you only need an ATmega328 IC. To configure/ program this IC, there are a few components that you need to make it work.
The components that you need would be as follows:
|1||ATmega328P-PU||Arduino Optiboot Bootloader|
|1||Ceramic Resonator||16 MHz (optional)|
|2||Resistors||330 ohm, 10K|
|1||PushButton (Reset)||Tactile Switch|
|1||Switching Diode||Reset Pin Protection (Optional)|
|2||Voltage regulators||5V and an optional 3.3V|
|1||Rectifier Diode||Reverse Voltage Protection (Optional)|
|3||Ceramic Capacitors||0.1uF for High Frequency Noise Cancellation|
|n||Hook-up Wires||22 AWG|
To make it FTDI Compatible, you need to route the Tx, Rx, Vcc, GND wires where your FTDI Board can plug in while keeping track that the Tx needs to go into Rx of FTDI and vice-versa. Also, remember to add the Auto-Reset Functionality in the Board by including a 0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor between the Reset and DTR Pin of FTDI. If you prefer the In-Circuit System Programmer (ICSP), then you may route the Wires from MISO, MOSI, SCK, etc.
Or, you may choose an ArduBoard with All the above mentioned components in Surface Mount Form and of the Highest Quality especially chosen by keeping the level of Arduino in mind.
|Voltage Inputs – A DC Jack as well as an empty header for connecting bare wires from an adapter. The input voltage range of the ArduBoard is 7V to 12V.|
|On-Off switch A simple On-Off switch. There is a silkscreen indicator with “ON” written on it.|
|Inter-Integrated Circuit (I2C) – Onboard I2C Header for connecting your I2C Devices directly from the board. Just connect the required Pull-ups and you are good to go. Take care that the Vcc pin of the I2C header is running at 3.3V.|
|Programming – There is an FTDI Port for connecting a programmer directly to the ArduBoard. A list of supported Programmers is given below:
FTDI board – SparkFun Electronics
USB2Serial Adaptor – Arduino.cc
ATmega8U2 Breakout Board – SparkFun Electronics
Remember, the Tx and Rx lines of the Board are already reversed for mating with the FTDI Board. Just Plug-n-Play.
|In-Circuit System Programmer (ICSP) – These pins are used to bypass the Arduino Bootloader and directly program the ATMega328 Chip from a Compatible AVR Programmer. The MISO, MOSI and SCK pins can be accessed from the ICSP header for your SPI (Serial Peripheral Interface) Device needs.|
|Power Pins – There are different headers for 5V, GND and 3.3V, GND for easy interfacing. There are a lot of grounds on the Board so that you may never run out of Grounds!|
|LEDs – There is a Power LED (Green) that turns ON as soon as you switch on the ArduBoard. D13 pin has a yellow LED just like an Arduino Board. Remember the Blink Sketch!|
|Input Voltage – The input voltage range of the ArduBoard is 7V to 12V. It is capable of running at a minimum of 6.2V if input Voltage is supplied from the External Vin header. From the DC Jack, it will need a minimum of 7V as there is a Diode Drop involved. The ArduBoard will run from a 9V Battery or a Power Supply capable of running at 9V/ 1A. The absolute maximum voltage is 20V but don’t think of running the ArduBoard at 20V at all times. It is essentially for compensating the irregular spikes in your supply.|
|Diode – It is used for reverse voltage protection. In case you plug in the input supply backwards inverting the Vcc and GND. The diode also protects against Short Circuits.|
|5V Regulator – It is capable of supplying 800mA at normal load and even slightly above 1A in case you need it. But take care that the Board will get pretty hot and the Regulator circuit may even try to shut down the circuit. If you have the problem that your board switches off as soon as it is powered on, there might be a short in the circuit or your load might be sinking a lot of current.|
|3.3V Regulator – An onboard 3.3V Regulaotr is useful for your sensors, IMUs, etc. It is capable of providing your sensors or devices up to 300mA at 3.3V. The ArduBoard uses Analog Devices’ ADP122 LDO Regulator. You would be able to run an xBee Pro at full power (according to it’s Tech Specs, the Transmit Current requirement is 215mA @ 3.3V) with some external Sensors. Be aware, that you need a Logic Level Converter for connecting the Tx-Rx lines to-and-from the Din and Dout of xBee.|
|Capacitors – There are no Tantalum Caps on the Board, only Ceramic Caps. After the Dispute in the Democratic Republic of Congo about Coltan, the ore from which Tantalum is extracted, we have strictly transferred all our upcoming products to Ceramic Capacitors (no tantalums).|
|Reset – RESET pin has a 10K pullup resistor as well as a Protection Diode. According to the Official Atmel Application Note on AVRs (AVR042 – AVR Hardware Design Considerations), the reset pin is the only pin on the ATmega328 that is not protected for High Voltages because it supports High-Voltage/ Parallel Programming mode by drawing the reset pin HIGH (11.5V to 12.5V) for Programming. Thus, a Protection Diode is used.|
1.) Plug-n-Play – Upload any sketch to your Arduino Uno R3/R2/R1 Board and then take out the ATmega328 IC. Plug it in your ArduBoard in the correct orientation and enjoy the power of Arduino in a compact footprint.
After completing your prototyping on the Arduino board, you can shift to ArduBoard for your Final Project.
2.) Programming – You will receive a Bootloaded ATmega328P-PU IC in the Kit when you purchase the ArduBoard. You then also have an option to program it via the FTDI Port (DTR, Rx, Tx, Vcc, GND, GND).
Just plug in any USB to Serial Board (FTDI Compatible) from any manufacturer and you will get USB Capability. You will now be able to debug your Program from the Serial Monitor. A list of supported devices is given below:
Remember, the Tx and Rx lines of the Board are already reversed for mating with the FTDI Board hence the names – RXin and TXout. For additional clarification, the Basic FTDI Color Coding is followed on the Board. There are two SilkScreen Indicators at the bottom of the board showing the correct orientation of the FTDI Cable – BLK and GRN. Just Plug-n-Play.
For an Introduction to Programming an Arduino Board, see our Tutorial on Arduino Beginnings.
The ArduBoard in Action with a Futaba S3003 Servo.
See it in Action:
Schematic and Design Files may be found here: